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- Crisp, deeply browned shredded potatoes and caramelized onions deliver the full latke experience while staying light enough for the enriched dough to rise into tender, well-defined swirls.
- Rolling the dough thin and tight, squeezing moisture from the potatoes, and adding breadcrumbs ensure clean layers that bake through evenly without gumminess.
- A plush, enriched crumb and golden crust make this savory babka a festive Hanukkah centerpiece that also works beautifully for brunch, with soup, or as an impressive appetizer.
Babka may be best known for its glossy chocolate swirls, but this savory version takes its cues from a beloved Hanukkah staple, latkes. Recipe developer Caroline Schiff takes the essential elements of potato pancakes — crispy shredded potatoes, caramelized onions, and a tangy hit of sour cream — and makes a filling worthy of an enriched, bakery-style babka dough. The result is a centerpiece loaf that feels celebratory but completely doable at home, thanks to a manageable dough and thoughtful shaping steps.
Developing the perfect savory babka required balancing moisture, texture, and structure. Potatoes hold a surprising amount of liquid, and too much moisture can cause the interior of a babka to bake up dense or gummy. Squeezing the shredded potatoes dry, crisping them thoroughly in the skillet, and adding breadcrumbs keeps the filling light enough for the dough to rise fully while still delivering that unmistakable latke flavor. Rolling the dough thin and tight ensures clean, visible swirls, while the long bake creates a deep golden crust and plush interior.
Once baked, this babka is irresistible warm, its layers tender and fragrant with onion and potato. It’s an impressive savory bake for Hanukkah, but equally welcome at brunch, paired with a bowl of soup, or served as an appetizer.
What is enriched dough?
Enriched dough is a yeast dough boosted with butter, eggs, milk, and/or sugar, creating a tender, pliable texture and a richer flavor than lean doughs. These added fats and sugars slow gluten development but produce a soft, luxurious crumb — exactly what you want in babka. Because babka is twisted, filled, and baked into tight swirls, enriched dough’s elasticity and softness are essential. It stretches without tearing, holds fillings beautifully, and bakes into the signature pillowy, golden loaf.
Taking the dough’s temperature
Cooked dough is typically temped at 195°F to confirm it’s fully baked without drying out. At this point, starches have gelatinized and the crumb is set, ensuring the interior is cooked through. Going much higher risks a tough or crumbly texture, so 195°F strikes the ideal balance for tender, reliable results.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
- Squeezing the shredded potatoes dry and crisping them thoroughly is essential for well-defined layers.
- A thinner, tightly rolled log produces the most attractive swirl and prevents gaps.
- Bake until the internal temperature reaches 195°F to ensure the center is fully cooked.
This recipe was developed by Caroline Schiff; the text was written by Breana Killeen.