:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc():format(jpeg)/Cacio-E-Pepe-Potato-Croquettes-FT-RECIPE1125-eadc70ec00324ca193a4189ee496cd7f.jpg)
Why it passed the test
- A combination of salty pecorino cheese, floral black pepper, and fresh, sharp garlic gives the mashed potatoes a flavor that contrasts the rich filling beautifully.
- A blend of russet and Yukon Gold potatoes strikes the perfect balance — light and fluffy inside yet sturdy enough to hold a molten cheese center.
- Chilling the croquettes before breading ensures they hold their shape, while a panko crust fries up shatteringly crisp around the creamy, cheese-filled interior that oozes with each bite.
Originating in France and beloved from Spain to Japan, croquettes are a global favorite finger food. Most croquettes start with either a béchamel or mashed potato base that is seasoned, breaded, and deep-fried until golden and crisp. Some croquettes are also stuffed with fillings such as chicken, ham, seafood, herbs, and cheese.
These croquettes are inspired by the flavors of cacio e pepe, the classic Roman pasta. A mix of russet and Yukon Gold potatoes is passed through a ricer for a fluffy base, then tossed with plenty of grated Pecorino Romano cheese, coarsely ground black pepper, and a hint of garlic for sharpness. Each potato roll is wrapped around a nugget of Fontina cheese, which melts into a gooey center as the croquettes fry, echoing the creamy texture of the pasta. A simple dredge of flour, egg, and panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs) creates a shatter-crisp shell that contrasts perfectly the tender, cheesy middle, while a final shower of parsley, more pecorino, and a few extra grinds of pepper make the croquettes party-ready in both presentation and flavor.
If you’re trying to become more comfortable with deep-frying, this recipe leans on a few key techniques for success that can be applied to other fried foods at home. Chilling the potato mixture helps it firm up in the refrigerator and hold its shape when fried, while frying in batches helps maintain the oil temperature, allowing it to reheat between batches and preventing greasy, oil-soaked croquettes. Serve these with any of your favorite dipping sauces like a warm marinara sauce or creamy garlic aioli.
Fontina versus mozzarella cheese
Both Fontina and low-moisture mozzarella have low melting points and either can create the gooey center for these croquettes. The low-moisture mozzarella brings clean, dairy-forward flavor and is the best cheese for a stretchy cheese pull. Fontina melts just as smoothly but tastes nuttier, with subtle mushroom notes, and its higher fat content creates a richer, creamier filling.
Ricing potatoes for croquettes
Since the base of croquettes is mashed potatoes, pushing the hot potatoes through a ricer is key to achieving uniform strands that prevent lumps. Mashing potatoes by hand can sometimes overwork the starch, leading to mashed potatoes with a more gluey texture rather than light and fluffy. The result of ricing is a smooth, lump-free base that stays light and fluffy yet molds cleanly so the croquettes hold their shape and fry evenly. If you do not have a ricer, press the potatoes through a coarse-mesh sieve. It takes a little more effort but yields similar results.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
- Rice the potatoes while hot so the steam escapes; this keeps the mash dry and fluffy.
- Maintain oil temperature at 350°F; rotate croquettes gently for even browning. Rest for five to 10 minutes after frying to allow the cheese center to finish melting without bursting.
- To deepen the pepper’s aroma, toast it briefly in a dry pan before mixing — the heat releases its oils and intensifies its fragrance.
This recipe was developed by Julia Levy; the text was written by Andee Gosnell.