Cambodian Sa-om Omelet

“One of my favorite ways to enjoy the sa-om herb is also one of the simplest ways to prepare it: folded into beaten eggs and cooked into an omelet,” says 2019 F&W Best New Chef Nite Yun. “If you’re not familiar, sa-om is a shrub that grows in abundance throughout southeast Asia, all year long. Because of its accessibility and versatility, you’ll find it used everywhere in Cambodia, from homes to roadside stalls. Sa-om has a uniquely pungent, I’d say fishy, smell when raw; once cooked, that smell disappears and it takes on a nutty, complex bitterness with a chewy, creamy, almost meaty texture unusual for an herb. If you’re fortunate to know local farmers who grow Southeast Asian herbs, there’s a good chance they’ll have sa-om. Otherwise, find it fresh or frozen (usually in 4-ounce packages) at Southeast Asian markets, where it also may be labeled as cha-om, climbing wattle, stinky leaf, or acacia leaf. Eat this with rice or porridge any time of the day for a meal, or split it between friends as part of a spread of dishes.”

Where can I buy sa-om? 

You can buy sa-om — sometimes labeled and sold as cha-om or acacia leaf — at Asian grocery stores, particularly ones that specialize in Southeast Asian ingredients. You can also order packaged frozen leaves online from Afro Asia International Foods.

What can I substitute for sa-om?

While there’s no exact substitute for the unique flavor of sa-om, you can use two cups chopped green onions or green garlic. Sa-om has a more intense flavor, so you may need to use more to achieve a similar depth.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

This recipe calls for a 10-inch nonstick skillet, but you can also use an 8-inch one. The omelet will be slightly thicker and take a bit longer to cook through, but it still works well.

Flipping an omelet is all about confidence. Start with a nonstick pan and a flexible rubber or silicone spatula. Gently tilt the pan and slide the spatula under one side of the omelet, then gently lift and fold it over.