Pork Cheek and Black-Eyed Pea Chili Recipe

Michael Symon defines himself as a “porketarian,” saying he can’t get enough of the meat. For his luscious chili, he uses incredibly flavorful and succulent pork cheeks — an unusual cut worth seeking out. He first seasons and sears them, then cooks them low and slow with bacon, aromatics, peppers, tomatoes, and black-eyed peas in ale and chicken stock until buttery soft. The result is a complex, slightly smoky chili that’s further enhanced with garnishes of smoked cheddar, fresh cilantro, and creamy, mildly tangy crème fraîche.

Why pork cheeks?

Rich pork cheeks, aka pork jowls, are ideal for a slow-cooked chili like this. Because they come from a hardworking part of the animal, the meat is full of dense muscle fibers and connective tissue that need gentle braising or stewing to break down, transforming the cheeks from tough and chewy to melt-in-your-mouth tender. Searing them first, as Symon does here, adds a deeper layer of flavor through the Maillard reaction, which browns the proteins and caramelizes the small amount of natural sugars on the surface.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

• If pork cheeks aren’t available, pork shoulder can be substituted — cut it into 2-inch pieces and proceed with the recipe. Add 30 minutes to the cooking time in Step 4.
• Pat the meat dry before searing for an optimally golden exterior.
• Serve the chili with warm, buttered cornbread.

Suggested Pairing

Symon’s immensely satisfying pork and black-eyed pea chili has such depth of flavor that it pairs best with a beer rich enough to stand up to it. Brown ale is made with malted barley that’s been roasted to a dark brown color, helping to impart notes of caramel and toast, which make it a great match here. Look for New Orleans–area brewery Abita Brewing Company’s chocolaty Turbodog, or the nutty Newcastle Brown Ale from England.