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The center of a holiday dinner table is typically a beautifully adorned roast turkey or chicken, but let’s face it: We’re all there for the gravy. A truly rich and flavorful gravy can transform just about any decent meal to something special.
For all of my adult life, I’ve really only made gravy one way. I fortify stock with leftover bones and aromatics and combine that with juices from the roasting pan. Then I dust some flour over the fat from the bottom of the roasting pan, cook until nutty brown, and slowly pour in my ultra-rich stock, simmering until thickened. It’s a classic method I learned from watching my mom make Thanksgiving dinner as a kid, and one I swear by to this day.
To determine if my roux with drippings is actually the best method, I put it to the test against other common techniques: roux with butter, roux with oil, cornstarch slurry, and beurre manié. The goal was a rich, flavorful gravy with a smooth yet thick texture.
A word about the method
Consistency is critical whenever comparing cooking methods. That’s why for all tests I simply used Swanson Chicken Stock and for the roux and beurre manié methods I used the same brand of unsalted butter along with King Arthur all-purpose flour. All techniques produced about 3/4 cup of gravy, but they can easily be scaled up as needed. I also seasoned with a big pinch each of salt and pepper and added fresh sage and thyme. These are not required, but the gravy is lacking without some fresh woody herbs.
For the roux methods, I experimented with adding both hot and cold stock but found little distinction between the two. However, more important than the temperature seems to be the pace of adding liquid. Add just a touch to make a paste and be sure to whisk that until smooth. Then continue adding the stock while whisking constantly until smooth and thickened. If you do get tiny lumps, you can always pass it through a fine mesh strainer.
Cornstarch slurry
Food & Wine / Photo by Kelsey Hansen / Food Styling by Lauren McAnelly / Prop Styling Gabe Greco
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 5 minutes
Rating: 5/10
Method: Using a slurry to thicken stock is by far the simplest method on this list. Stir together cornstarch and an equal amount of cold water until smooth, then slowly whisk the mixture into boiling liquid. It’ll instantly thicken, producing a silky-smooth sauce.
Results: This method lands at the bottom of the list not because it’s bad, but simply because the other techniques produce better results. The gravy lacks the complexity and richness of other methods. In addition, the texture is a touch gelatinous, almost jelly-like (though certainly not off-putting). This should be your method only if you can’t use flour for any reason, such as guests with celiac disease.
Pros: Simple method that produces fine, gluten-free results.
Cons: Lacks complexity and depth of flavor. The texture is a bit gelatinous and thickens to a jelly-like consistency as it cools. Lackluster appearance.
Beurre manié
Food & Wine / Photo by Kelsey Hansen / Food Styling by Lauren McAnelly / Prop Styling Gabe Greco
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 10 minutes
Rating: 7/10
Method: Of all the methods on this list, this may be the one you’ve never tried before. To make a beurre manie, mash together equal parts room temperature butter and flour until it’s a thick paste. It’s important the flour is completely coated by butter and no dry streaks remain. Then whisk a bit of the mixture into simmering broth. Adding a bit in stages prevents the sauce from separating or turning greasy.
Results: This is a method I learned back in culinary school, but I only use it today if I forgot to thicken a sauce or soup with a roux first (or if my roux didn’t thicken my sauce enough). The results here are pretty good, but like using a cornstarch slurry, gravy thickened with beurre manié lacks a bit of complexity. This is a good option if you don’t want the nutty and toasty flavor you get with a roux, but I was definitely missing those notes. In addition, the color is quite light compared to the roux methods.
Pros: A solid method if you forgot to make a roux or if you want the flavor of the stock to be front and center. Easy to adjust thickness depending on how much beurre manié is used.
Cons: It can take some time to get the flour and butter paste just right. If the butter is too cold, it won’t form a smooth paste. The flavor isn’t as nutty or toasty as you’d achieve with a roux, and the color is fairly light.
Roux with oil
Food & Wine / Photo by Kelsey Hansen / Food Styling by Lauren McAnelly / Prop Styling Gabe Greco
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 5 minutes
Rating: 8.5/10
Method: These top three methods all produced very good gravy. In fact, I’d be perfectly happy to serve any alongside my roast. For this technique, simply heat oil in a skillet, dust with flour, and whisk well until it forms a smooth paste. Cook until slightly browned (darker brown roux has stronger flavor but less thickening power) then slowly whisk in a bit of stock until smooth. Continue whisking in the stock and cook until smooth, another couple minutes.
Results: Thickening stock with a roux made with oil is a great option for gravy. It tastes warm and familiar with toasty and nutty flavors that complement the rich stock and aromatic herbs very well.
Pros: Gravy has a pleasant toasty, nutty flavor with a smooth yet thick consistency. Simple to execute.
Cons: Other methods produce richer, more complex flavors and deeper color.
Roux with butter
Food & Wine / Photo by Kelsey Hansen / Food Styling by Lauren McAnelly / Prop Styling Gabe Greco
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 5 minutes
Rating: 9/10
Method. Just like making a roux with oil, simply whisk flour into melted butter in a skillet and cook until lightly browned. Then slowly pour in some stock and whisk into a thicker paste. Continue pouring in the liquid while whisking and cook until thickened, about 2 more minutes.
Results: The runner-up in our gravy test, a roux made with butter was only marginally better than one made with oil, but I prefer the slightly richer flavor you get from the nutty browned butter. This is an excellent way to make gravy and produces a consistently delicious product.
Pros: Rich and flavorful gravy with a smooth and pleasantly thick consistency. The lightly browned butter provides a nice nutty flavor.
Cons: You have to pay attention to not overcook and burn the butter. The flavor is terrific, but not quite as good as the winner.
Roux with drippings
Food & Wine / Photo by Kelsey Hansen / Food Styling by Lauren McAnelly / Prop Styling Gabe Greco
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 10 minutes
Method: The winner of the best method for making gravy happens to be the same way I’ve made it most of my adult life, and probably the same method you use too. It’s the classic method of making a roux with some of the leftover fat from the roasting pan and deglazing with roasting juices from the drippings. Like the other roux methods, it’s important to sprinkle the flour over the fat, whisking well and cooking until lightly browned. Then slowly whisk in reserved pan juices and cook until thickened. Note that you may need to add some chicken stock to the roasting juices if you don’t have enough liquid.
Results: This is pure nostalgia in gravy form, with an intensely rich and toasty flavor and a pleasantly smooth and thick consistency. The juices provide deep umami while the reserved fat imparts rich meaty flavor. For the absolute best gravy, reserve roasting juices and make a roux using leftover fat. You’ll be rewarded with an ultra-rich and flavorful sauce for holiday bliss.
Pros: Very rich gravy with a thick and smooth consistency. By far the most flavorful gravy on the list. Uses drippings that you’d otherwise need to store or discard anyway.
Cons: You need to reserve as much drippings as possible. You could deglaze the roasting pan with chicken stock or even wine, meaning this also has a great deal of inconsistency and truly depends on the quality of your drippings.
Final takeaways
The best way to make gravy is a classic method of reserving drippings to create a roux. It makes sense as the fat and roasting juices from drippings are more flavorful than butter and oil, though you can also get really great results making gravy with a butter or oil roux. Next time you’re roasting a turkey or chicken, reserve those drippings and turn those deeply rich juices into a wonderful gravy.
Methods:
1. Roux (Drippings)
Active 5 min. Total 5 min.
Yield: 3/4 cup
2 Tbsp. reserved fat, from pan drippings
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup roasting juices, from pan drippings (plus chicken stock, as needed)
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme or sage
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1. Heat reserved fat in a small skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle flour evenly over fat and whisk well until smooth. Continue to cook until lightly browned, about 1 minute.
2. Measure 1 cup roasting juices and if needed, add enough chicken stock to yield 1 cup liquid. Scrape off fond from bottom of the pan and add to the juices. Slowly pour roasting juices into the skillet while continuing to whisk. Simmer over medium heat while continuing to whisk and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in thyme or sage and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
2. Roux (Butter)
Active 5 min. Total 5 min.
YIeld: 3/4 cup
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme or sage
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1. Melt butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle flour evenly over melted butter and whisk until smooth. Continue to cook until lightly browned, about 1 minute.
2. Slowly pour in chicken stock while continuing to whisk. Simmer over medium heat while continuing to whisk and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in thyme or sage and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
3. Roux (Olive Oil)
Active 5 min. Total 5 min.
Yield: 3/4 cup
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme or sage
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1. Heat oil in a small skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Sprinkle flour evenly over oil and whisk until smooth. Continue to cook until lightly browned, about 1 minute.
2. Slowly pour in chicken stock while continuing to whisk. Simmer over medium heat while continuing to whisk and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in thyme or sage and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
4. Beurre Manié
Active 5 min. Total 10 min.
Yield: 3/4 cup
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme or sage
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1. Mash together softened butter with flour into a smooth paste, being sure no dry streaks of flour remain.
2. Boil chicken stock in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a low simmer and add a spoonful of the butter mixture (about 2 teaspoons) and whisk until well incorporated. Repeat with remaining butter mixture, whisking well to prevent lumps. Continue to whisk and simmer mixture until thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in thyme or sage and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
5. Cornstarch Slurry
Active 5 min. Total 5 min.
1 1/2 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 1/2 Tbsp. cold water
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme or sage
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1. Stir together cornstarch and water in a small bowl until smooth. Boil chicken stock in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a low simmer and slowly drizzle in cornstarch mixture while continuing to whisk. Simmer until mixture is thickened, about 1 minute, then stir in thyme or sage and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.