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- Tart apples are matched with fresh pineapple and a bit of lemon juice for bright tang and tropical sweetness, giving the pie a more complex fruit flavor than standard apple pie.
- A classic double-crust made with vegetable shortening yields a tender, golden shell that holds up well to the moist filling without getting soggy.
- The judicious use of warm spices like nutmeg and cinnamon enhances the fruit without overpowering it.
“My mother is very inventive in the kitchen,” New York City-based cookbook author and culinary historian Jessica B. Harris told us when this recipe was originally published in 1996. “I learned a lot about cooking from her and from my grandmothers.” One lesson was this delicious fruit pie. The all-shortening pastry dough produces an especially tender shell to house a balanced, delicately spiced mix of tangy apples slices and sweet, finely chopped pineapple.
The best tart apples for baking
Choosing the best apples for baking comes down to both flavor and texture. For this recipe, the apples are paired with sweet, finely chopped fresh pineapple, so tart apples that hold their shape when baked will provide the complementary contrast needed for a great pie. Firm and tangy Granny Smith apples are the classic choice, but Jonathan, Winesap, and Braeburn are also good bets, as are Honeycrisp and Pink Lady, which are a bit sweeter than the others. Feel free to use a combination of apple varieties for the best of all worlds.
Why use a milk wash
Brushing the top of your unbaked pie with milk has two purposes: First, the lactose sugars caramelize in the oven to give the crust a lovely golden hue, and second, it works as a sort of glue to adhere a sprinkling of sugar, enhancing caramelization and contributing a delightfully sweet crunch.
Unlike egg wash, milk does not yield a glossy sheen or hardened exterior, but rather a matte finish that maintains the crust’s fork-tender quality. Whole milk, half-and-half, and cream are all good options, as it’s both the dairy’s fat and lactose that provide the desired effect. Be sure to brush it on evenly and avoid letting it pool for a finished pie that’s consistently browned.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
- Slice the apples uniformly about 1/4-inch thick and toss with the pineapple and lemon juice before adding the sugar and spices so everything cooks evenly.
- Take care not to overwork the pastry dough, handling it just until it holds together so it stays tender. Then, chill the dough at least 30 minutes before rolling to allow the flour to fully hydrate and the shortening to firm up for easier handling.
- Start baking on a lower rack position as recommended to get a good browning on the crust underneath before moving to the middle rack, tenting with foil if the top crust is becoming too brown before the apples are fully cooked.
