Spiced Kabocha Stew Recipe

Cold weather calls for cozy stews, and this one-pot recipe from 2018 F&W Best New Chef Clare de Boer layers sweet, nutty kabocha squash with peppery broccoli rabe and aromatics. The flavor foundation starts by blooming cumin seeds and crushed red pepper in olive oil with plenty of fresh ginger and garlic until they’re toasty and fragrant. Here, the squash is used in two ways, making the most out of the humble ingredient. Half the squash simmers until very tender, then gets mashed right in the pot to create a naturally creamy base without a slurry. The rest goes in later so the pieces retain their shape and are cooked until tender with a slight bite. 

The quiet hero of this stew is canned coconut milk, which adds body and silkiness. De Boer skims the thick, separated coconut cream from the top of the can to dollop on each bowl, where it mellows the heat of Calabrian chile paste and adds a cool, rich finish. The result is comforting but bright, with sweet squash balanced by the pleasant bitterness of the greens and a gentle, gingery warmth. While this stew is delicious on its own, serve it with crusty bread or spooned over steamed rice for extra bulk. This stew comes together quickly, and most of the work is hands-off. The stew keeps well, so consider making a little extra for busy weeknights where you just need something to reheat. 

Do you need to peel kabocha squash skin before cooking? 

Usually, no. Kabocha’s skin is thin and fully edible, so most recipes leave it on, though it’s a matter of preference. The advantage of leaving the peel on is it saves on prep time. In this recipe, keeping the peel also helps the unmashed pieces of squash hold their shape as they soften in the broth. If you keep the skin on, scrub the squash well and trim any tough or blemished spots, which can be unpleasant to eat. 

What are the best substitutes for kabocha squash?

Kabocha squash is a winter squash, typically in season from September through late December. If you can’t find kabocha, the closest substitutes for its low-moisture, sweet flesh are buttercup squash or red kuri (Hokkaido) squash. Although butternut squash is more widely available, it has a higher moisture content and a more mild sweetness. If substituting butternut in this recipe, keep in mind that the final texture of the stew will be slightly looser, and the flavor will be less sweet. 

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

• To ensure that your coconut milk has separated enough to scoop out the coconut cream, refrigerate your can for at least one hour. 
• You can substitute vegetable broth with chicken broth for a non-vegetarian version of this stew. 
• Use a thin but sturdy metal spoon to quickly peel the skin from the ginger. 

Suggested pairing

A dry Trimbach Gewürztraminer: The lychee and rose aromas of the Trimbach Gewürztraminer echo the ginger and turmeric in this dish, while the variety’s natural spice mirrors the cumin and crushed red pepper. Trimbach’s dry, creamy palate and moderate acidity complement coconut milk’s richness without tasting overly sweet. The wine’s weight also stands up to dense kabocha, and its perfume softens broccoli rabe’s bitterness. A gentle chill also tames the heat from Calabrian chile paste. 

This recipe was developed by Clare de Boer; the text was written by Andee Gosnell.